Kanos build, step by step.
Re: Kanos build, step by step.
Yo Boss!
Don't worry, its done... the Black you can see is a strip of thin plastic sheet I put in to keep the top half of the bucket rigid whilst I played with the Mohawk (there is a stress tear forming in the corner of the visor slit). Once the top coats are on (what's the agreed shade of red for Kanos? can I go any lighter then regular guard Burgundy?) it comes out and the lenses gets added.
hrrrrrrm... any one got a spare dark smoked or two handy?
Don't worry, its done... the Black you can see is a strip of thin plastic sheet I put in to keep the top half of the bucket rigid whilst I played with the Mohawk (there is a stress tear forming in the corner of the visor slit). Once the top coats are on (what's the agreed shade of red for Kanos? can I go any lighter then regular guard Burgundy?) it comes out and the lenses gets added.
hrrrrrrm... any one got a spare dark smoked or two handy?
Re: Kanos build, step by step.
I've used a darkened grinding mask I got from a local auto-body shop (the insert, not the whole headgear to save money). Under $20raven6056 wrote: hrrrrrrm... any one got a spare dark smoked or two handy?
As well as a flexible motorcycle helmet snap-on face shield in smoked which I picked up at a local Honda motorcycle shop. Under $10 but smaller than the above mask
Both are pre-shaded so I didn't have to put darkener on them AND they're designed to flex. I also like the idea that my face mask can stop a rock
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stripes
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Re: Kanos build, step by step.
You often have things thrown at you there Jester?JesterTDA wrote:I've used a darkened grinding mask I got from a local auto-body shop (the insert, not the whole headgear to save money). Under $20raven6056 wrote: hrrrrrrm... any one got a spare dark smoked or two handy?
As well as a flexible motorcycle helmet snap-on face shield in smoked which I picked up at a local Honda motorcycle shop. Under $10 but smaller than the above mask
Both are pre-shaded so I didn't have to put darkener on them AND they're designed to flex. I also like the idea that my face mask can stop a rock
-
stripes
- Former DL
- Posts: 2079
- Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2008 1:46 am
- TKID: 3676
- Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
- Contact:
Re: Kanos build, step by step.
No worries.... just making sure you hadn't missed that as it's bad enough looking through the small mail slot that we haveraven6056 wrote:Yo Boss!
Don't worry, its done... the Black you can see is a strip of thin plastic sheet I put in to keep the top half of the bucket rigid whilst I played with the Mohawk (there is a stress tear forming in the corner of the visor slit). Once the top coats are on (what's the agreed shade of red for Kanos? can I go any lighter then regular guard Burgundy?) it comes out and the lenses gets added.
hrrrrrrm... any one got a spare dark smoked or two handy?
-
LuciousTalvloinne
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Re: Kanos build, step by step.
When that Mohawk Kanos is done I need Front Back Side pics of it 
Lucious Talvloinne TR-4126 (Stephen Davenport)
Costume Referencer 08-09 Detachment XO 09-10 Detachment CO 10-11 Detachment CO 11-12 Detachment XO 12-13 Detachment XO 13-14 Detachment X0 14-15 Detachment Mentor 15-17 Detachment CO 17-18
Owner of Carnor Jax - Captain Argyus - Revenge of the Sith Royal Guard - Force Unleashed Royal Guard
Costume Referencer 08-09 Detachment XO 09-10 Detachment CO 10-11 Detachment CO 11-12 Detachment XO 12-13 Detachment XO 13-14 Detachment X0 14-15 Detachment Mentor 15-17 Detachment CO 17-18
Owner of Carnor Jax - Captain Argyus - Revenge of the Sith Royal Guard - Force Unleashed Royal Guard
Re: Kanos build, step by step.
Always be prepared!stripes wrote:You often have things thrown at you there Jester?
Re: Kanos build, step by step.
Only from J's significant other when a new costume shows up in the home unannounced ..... 
... Which happens to me all the time.
... Which happens to me all the time.
Re: Kanos build, step by step.
Ok... more work done over the holiday weekend:
For a start, I rummaged through my bits box to see what Belt Kit options might emerge... and Viola! (actually double bass, viola and Violin) .
Found an old B pull scout belt strip and a couple of stormy drop boxes... needless to say the buckle will have to be a scratch-build.
bit of trimming and a coat of red primer later:
Im going to do a charity shop rummage later today to find a nice red or black leather belt.... always a fun way to spend a Tuesday.
The Bracers have both moved on as well. Got both marked up in red pen to show spacing before I started playing with the most vile material known to model makers... three part epoxy resin.
This I find vital. I used to make up resin armor semi professionally when I was back home in the UK for a LARP group called the Lorian Trust... The trick is to always have a visual ref to where your goop is going to be applied and in what thickness.
The weight factor Im not worried about... ought to be about 3-4 pounds imperial on the thicker one and 2-3 on the ribbed. I actually like HEAVY armor... gets me more in character when im wearing 30lbs + of hard armor rather then a suit of light cast PVC stormy gear . ( also its less likely to tear when a belligerent 5 year old smashes a hard plastic blaster into your ... "mid section" armor plate on a troop ... also these pieces may well end up as masters for a mold set... if the Garrisons Vac table ever gets working again!!!!
PS.. anyone got a Hasbro DH17 they would be willing to part with? cant get one locally and ebay seems bare of em! It will make Holster manufacture a lot easier!!!!
For a start, I rummaged through my bits box to see what Belt Kit options might emerge... and Viola! (actually double bass, viola and Violin) .
Found an old B pull scout belt strip and a couple of stormy drop boxes... needless to say the buckle will have to be a scratch-build.
bit of trimming and a coat of red primer later:
Im going to do a charity shop rummage later today to find a nice red or black leather belt.... always a fun way to spend a Tuesday.
The Bracers have both moved on as well. Got both marked up in red pen to show spacing before I started playing with the most vile material known to model makers... three part epoxy resin.
This I find vital. I used to make up resin armor semi professionally when I was back home in the UK for a LARP group called the Lorian Trust... The trick is to always have a visual ref to where your goop is going to be applied and in what thickness.
The weight factor Im not worried about... ought to be about 3-4 pounds imperial on the thicker one and 2-3 on the ribbed. I actually like HEAVY armor... gets me more in character when im wearing 30lbs + of hard armor rather then a suit of light cast PVC stormy gear . ( also its less likely to tear when a belligerent 5 year old smashes a hard plastic blaster into your ... "mid section" armor plate on a troop ... also these pieces may well end up as masters for a mold set... if the Garrisons Vac table ever gets working again!!!!
PS.. anyone got a Hasbro DH17 they would be willing to part with? cant get one locally and ebay seems bare of em! It will make Holster manufacture a lot easier!!!!
Re: Kanos build, step by step.
Update time again... (Im on a roll) 
Found a nice template of a DH17 in my bits box... thus Holster construction can get moving. This will be a two part build. The lower "Bucket" part of the holster first and then the Belt attachment rig with holster flap once that's done.
A sure sign of costume work underway... wife noted table within 3 seconds... noted lawn un-mowed as she walked into house.... ooooooops :doh:
My method is simple for ridged "Hard Holsters".... Draw out templates of the sides/Front/Rear/Base, cut plasti-card to shape with tabs to fold over (like those paper house cut out kits we made as kids) then set with glue. Once dry set cardboard plates inside for greater strength. and set with a hard resin based glue. Wait to dry before covering.
I raided three of the local Thrift Shops... found a ladies handbag of red Stretchy Leatherette and proceeded to cut it to pieces.
nice seams and just the right shade! I use rivets on the rear to secure the leather before stretching and gluing the rest... a last rivet secures the wrapping.
And there we go.
One holster mostly done for the epic cost of ....
$8.
... and $6 of that was spent on glue.
tomorrow we ought to be able to see part two complete and the fully assembled holster rig ready for mounting.
Found a nice template of a DH17 in my bits box... thus Holster construction can get moving. This will be a two part build. The lower "Bucket" part of the holster first and then the Belt attachment rig with holster flap once that's done.
A sure sign of costume work underway... wife noted table within 3 seconds... noted lawn un-mowed as she walked into house.... ooooooops :doh:
My method is simple for ridged "Hard Holsters".... Draw out templates of the sides/Front/Rear/Base, cut plasti-card to shape with tabs to fold over (like those paper house cut out kits we made as kids) then set with glue. Once dry set cardboard plates inside for greater strength. and set with a hard resin based glue. Wait to dry before covering.
I raided three of the local Thrift Shops... found a ladies handbag of red Stretchy Leatherette and proceeded to cut it to pieces.
nice seams and just the right shade! I use rivets on the rear to secure the leather before stretching and gluing the rest... a last rivet secures the wrapping.
And there we go.
One holster mostly done for the epic cost of ....
$8.
... and $6 of that was spent on glue.
tomorrow we ought to be able to see part two complete and the fully assembled holster rig ready for mounting.