We know that the screen-used fabric is a material called ultrasuede, per a comment by Lead Costume Designer Shawna Trpcic on instagram.
Ultrasuede in its variations is not a cheap material, ranging from $100-$200/yard. Thus, we cannot mandate it as a requirement for basic approval for this costume as it would be prohibitive for costumers. As a compromise, we added it as a L2 classification. However, I also wanted to begin the research for fabric alternatives that may serve as a “close enough” option colour-wise and with regards to drape and flow.
To note, thank you to everyone who has sent me samples to look at.
Disclaimer: As of this post, the CRL is in progress and under review, so all recommendations I make are my own personal thoughts and may be rendered non-compliant by future review and recommendations by Detachment.
Materials:
The current materials I have access to:
- Ultrasuede ST Scoundrel Red. Purchased from Field’s Fabrics Online Store as a roll of 58” width. $69.97USD/yd on sale at time of purchase. This will be my material based on my best colour match to my sources, however the usual caveat of “We can’t be sure of a 100% colour match based on current available sources” applies.
- Ultrasuede HP Ambience Red / Received a swatch from a friend who purchased a roll from Field’s Fabrics. 55” width $95.97USD /yd on sale at time of purchase.
- Red microsuede from Fabric Warehouse Direct: swatch sent to me by @andyman on the forums, this was his initial material, I believe. $9.99USD/yd at time of this post.
- Sew Clasics Red microsuede from Joann. Received samples from various people. Possibly the easiest fabric to find as Joann is everywhere in the US. $9.09USD/yd at 58”
- Random swatches of microsuede purchased from etsy. As they were functionally similar to Joann microsuede I didn’t add their sources specifically to this thread.
The image above is taken in my dining room with indirect yellow lighting, with my bucket painted in safety red as reference.
Far left = Ultrasuede HP, Middle = Ultrasuede ST, Bottom Right = Fabric Warehouse microsuede, Top right = Joann Microsuede.
I took another picture in my garage, white background under direct white LED lighting
Far left = Ultrasuede ST, Bottom Middle = Ultrasuede HP, Top Middle = Fabric Warehouse microsuede, Right = Joann Microsuede and etsy microsuede.
Colour-wise, we see that the fabric warehouse stuff and the Ultrasuede HP are darker than the other fabrics, however I think only the fabric warehouse microsuede is the wrong enough shade to be unacceptable. Plus in the first image the thick texture of the nap can clearly be seen, which isn’t present on the other samples- this can result in a “glossy” appearance under some lighting that isn’t desirable given that the skirts are quite matte on-screen.
Comparing the two ultrasuedes:
Lighting is off-set LED lamp in my office. Lighting changes so many things, and in this pic both ultrasuedes are close to the same shade of red. However one should note that the HP has a different texture on one side, enough that there is a “right” and “wrong” side, not like the ST where front and back appear identical.
Thickness and weight
Here is where ultrasuede stands completely apart from the pack. I tried my best to show the relative thicknesses here, but unfortunately it is incredibly difficult to show visually and is very much a “touch and feel” thing:
1 = Ultrasuede ST, 2 = Ultrasuede HP, 3 = fabric warehouse MS, 4 = Joann MS.
The Ultrasuedes are pretty thick, not quite like leather but close. The HP is almost double the thickness of the ST, and the microsuedes don’t even come close- they act more like standard broadcloth fabric.
This is why we had a lot of discussion re: single vs double layers for the skirt and cape. I personally think a double layer of ultrasuede would be way too heavy, but a double layer of say, Joann microsuede would be necessary to replicate the weight and drape of ultrasuede. Maybe I'll experiment with that, and with/without interfacing...
If cost is to be considered, the most accessible material would be the Joann microsuede. If the costumer however is determined to use ultrasuede for L2 classification, then the ST is my recommendation just for the cost alone, as the HP material is $140.95/yd when not on sale.
