Home of the Sovereign Protectors

Wow, I've fallen behind on the updates. Here's coming a small wall of them...

Met with the seamstress and had a rough first fitting with the muslin. There was a lot of tweaks/pinings for the outer robe, and some minor re-adjustments for the inner robe. No pictures yet, but the next fitting with the muslin I'll put some before she dives into the velvet work.

Some pictures of the helmet in various stages of having the seam filled. I had to spread the gap a bit further apart to fit my head and a pair of narrow-profile glasses, so I used flexible Plastic Surgery from Dominion Sure Seal. It's a two-part mix that hardens into a flexible plastic like material. Sands nicely, is paint-able, and should not crack if the helmet flexes. The pictures progress in time as you go down. The last 3 photos are not complete yet, still some work to do on them.

Great job.
Maybe i should by myself a kit too.

I will say the split kits are nice for heads if you need to resize. Not like the old DON POST that would warp.

I have seen an old Don Post warping while my fellow guard trooped with me.
I immediately send im into the shadow to get the helmet fixed.
So i dont think this will happen with this kit.

In his thread where he sells it, he says he uses it in Western Australian heat with no problems.

http://forcepike.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=16059#p16059

Yes. So it it a great build buy you with good material.
I am very interested in your further progress.

Having a garrison member that has a Royal Guard take a look at it. He's the one who helped me glue it together, as I was ok cutting it out and cleaning it up but gluing is a very permanent step that can't be easily fixed. I suspect there will be a bit more work to do on it to touch up some parts. But I'll definitely keep posting pictures of the steps up to completion.

Picked up a random orbit sander that was on saw. It's gone about 1000% faster and better than hand sanding, although working in the contours was a bit challenging with a round head. Did a few small spots by hand where I had trouble getting the sander in. Anyways, I think I'm just about there, maybe a few small tweaks.

The pictures, as per all my others, aren't the best light, as I have to deal with lousy basement lighting. The submission photos won't be like this, but it's quick and easy for WIP pictures.

This is becoming a real nice piece.
Thanks for the pics.

Helmet has been set aside until I can find a painter. Now onto my Force Pike. Long wall of an update coming, the below taking maybe a couple of hours at most. As it's my first time doing this, I. Once the Force Pike thread is updated, I can compile it all together and put it into the ROTJ Force Pike thread if there's interest.

Am recovering from being under the weather. As the helmet has been put aside until I can arrange a painter for the helmet I worked on the force pike. Long wall of how-I-did-it following.

What I started with:



1x Oatey Fix it Stick putty
1x Ski pole: sanded striped and already cut based on where I'm going to put the handles
Handles: 2x 6" Direct Burial Splice Kit, as they were the longest I could find at the size I wanted
Pommel: 1x PVC Check Valve for the pommel, already sanded, and one end cut
Pommel end: 1x Rubber Stopper, will be the bottom of the pommel
2x o-rings for adding support where the ski pole goes into the pommel
2x 1/4-20 coupling nuts
1x 1/4-20 x 2 Hex Head Bolt (the picture above shows a 3" Threaded Rod, but I switched to Hex Head for simplicity of attaching)
1x M8 threaded rod, for the Emitter tip
1x ROTJ Emitter tip, purchased from @Cabbagefarmer

Started by partially threading the first coupling nut and applying some Oatey putty to hold it in place. The putty got quite warm, even making the ski pole feel warm where it was applied. But dried rock hard in a matter of a minute or two after mixing. Since I had the extra threaded rod to help position it and hold it steady as I applied more to fill holes and let it cure. Then I sanded it flush to the tip of the aluminum.



Then I threaded the hex bolt tightly onto the second coupling nut. I mixed up some putty and tightly packed it around the hex bolt and coupling nut. I roughed it up with some 60-grit sandpaper to ensure the next step had something to adhere to. Then I used the same process as above to put the threaded portion of the join into the pole. While it was still setting I quickly screwed it onto the other part to ensure that I could line up the cut with the grain. It also helped to ensure the two parts would fit together once it cured from the cut line. Then sanded it flush with the aluminum from the pole.





Once both pieces cured (a matter of minutes), it screwed together like this. This part will be sanded and fine-tuned a bit more to close the gap. But it will sit about just above the top handle so shouldn't be easily seen.



Onto the hardest part, as the opening is so small. The force pike emitter tip I ordered from @Cabbagefarmer looks amazing, but uses metric measurements. A local fastener store happened to have a perfectly sized M8 threaded rod, so I picked up two. Because the top part will be able to be removed, I'll be able to use my second ski pole as a backup.

The two pictures look a little off-kilter, and I was able to get most of it worked out. It's not 100% straight up but pretty darn close.





Here is the force pike minus the handles and the pommel. And yes, there are frogs on the laundry room door.



Here is the first coat (hopefully the only one needed) of flat black on the pommel. Obviously some spots went on a bit thicker than intended so I'll run over it with some very fine grit sandpaper and see what happens.