Home of the Sovereign Protectors

I'm building a Saber Pike (Big shout out to Matt Nelson for the kit) for my Shadow Guard (WTF for the armor) and wanted to share a couple of things that I came up with.

The Kit that I'm using has 3d printed parts and requires 1" PVC pipe and some fittings. There was an option to have a light up saber blade, and this is what I wanted to share.

Here's a pic laid out in the separate segments.


The kit calls for 1" Schedule 40 PVC, and that's your friend for this. Except for one section. The second section from the top, I made from 100psi PVC. The walls are a little thinner than SCH40. I also picked up a 3/4" connector, pair of 3/4" adapter bushings, and a 3/4" end cap. I used a bushing and one connector to keep the USB battery in place. The Fuel Rods are nothing fancy, 2600maH. I had a pair left over and they fit nicely in the PVC.



The bushing get's glued in place inside the PVC pipe to keep the battery from sliding toward the blade. One of the bushings goes inside the 1" PVC couplers to keep the battery from falling toward the ground. Here's a pic

Narrow piece gets glued in place, the fat end is in one of the SCH40 connectors. The cap actually pressure fits in place really well without glue. If you push it in all the way, it even auto aligns nicely.

This is the section of the staff, that I made out of 100PSI PVC instead of the SCH40. This way the 3/4" caps will fit in it. I use one bushing at each end. One keeps the battery in place. the other cap keeps the blade from the top section from sliding down too far. I didn't glue the bushings in place. There is one in each of the 1" PVC connectors at each end. The 3/4" end cap goes at the bottom of the staff to finish it off, and not have open PVC pipe at the bottom of the staff. I have a small rubber/felt furniture pad that sticks on it to keep the Saber Pike from sliding.


Here's a picture of everything together

Need to touch up a couple of spots.

That looks awesome! I didn't realize how tall they are! It's like a massive spear.

looks good. you may want to cut the dayblade down a bit though. Getting through doors will be a major problem. I have found that a 26" blade looks awesome. It's not a requirement or anything. Great job guard!

Here are the finished pictures. I used Rustoleum gloss black primer with a couple of different acrylic blank paints that were flat and satin to give it some depth. I then used a mix of gunmetal and black acrylic paint to weather it. Went over the whole thing with a satin clear coat to seal it. The foam is cut to fit inside the lid of my box. I'm going to add some velcro straps to keep the sections in place when the lid is closed.



I numbered the sections 1-4 from top to bottom as assembled. Also included are the overall measurements of the section.

Section 1 is 39" overall. The staff is 8" from end to top of the staff. There is 30" of blade from the top of the staff.

Overall staff is 6' from top to bottom.

I did screw up and forgot to mask the ends when I painted it. Those ends had to be sanded so that it would fit together. That's why they look jacked up.

A very solid build. Great job

Great job on the fittings etc. The only problem I've had with quick disconnect styles has been that you really can't perform any spins or the like because they will come apart. I've been looking for a flush mount locking coupling and if I ever come across one that allows for some spins and flourishes then I'll share. Most of these couplings will either be too loose and you're stuck holding them together during a troop or they become loose after about 10 or so troops. But for now I use these They're a real pain in the rear to get into the pipe though which works well for holding the whole thing together. I love your setup though. Great job!

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Formufit-1- ... f5Z1z0x2dg

So, that goes inside the PVC. Huh. Gonna have to look at that.

Yup those fittings fit really snug inside of the pike and make a nice flush fit. The only problem is that they do wear out rather quick. Be prepared to need a rubber or wooden mallet to get them into place. I ended up sanding one side down a little bit and then use a plastic dowel rod to push through it to keep it together. My personal goal is a 1/4 turn twist lock design that can hold up to messing around with basic spear forms and the like for demonstrations.

Any chance you would have a link for the gentleman who sells either the kit or supplies the files?