silverBoyd's "pool cue" RotJ Force Pike Build

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silverBoyd
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silverBoyd's "pool cue" RotJ Force Pike Build

Post by silverBoyd »

What goes best with the RotJ Guard's? You guessed it....a Force Pike. There are a few versions of the Force Pike depending on which version you are looking to make with your costume. For example, AotC Royal Guard, RotS Royal Guard, RotJ Royal Guard, Shadow Guard, etc...the Force Pike is different for the different incarnations. This build will be for a RotJ version.

I've researched a few threads and took a few ideas to create my own Force Pike based off of the RotJ version. This is a pretty simple build and for anyone new to prop making - this would be a great place to try your hand at it. For the most part, this is not 100% screen accurate BUT it will be close enough to go along with the RotJ Royal Guard CRL.

The shopping list is rather easy to find and inexpensive. I have found all of my supplies so far at WalMart, Lowe's, ACE Hardware & eBay (2 separate suppliers on eBay).

Force Pike Building Materials Needed:
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- 48" pool cue ($7.98 - WalMart...I bought the cheapest one I could find. You could also buy one that screws together to help when storing it but they cost more)
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- #18 "O-rings" (2 Packs @ $2.49/pack - Lowe's)
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- Acrylic Faucet Handle ($7.49 - Lowe's...any style will do but the smaller faucet handles fit almost perfectly)
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- Auto Trim 8x2 Screws w/ Built-In Washer (2-Pack @ $1.29)
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- Electric Garage Door Opener Replacement Worm Gear ($6.79 w/ free shipping - eBay...these can be hard to find on their own without buying a full electric garage door repair kit for $34, but check around the internet. If you want to know my supplier on eBay for the stand-alone worm gear, I'll be happy to share.)

In addition:
- various sandpaper
- grey primer
- Rustoleum Inspire Metallic Chrome spray paint ($5.98/can)
- bronze or gold paint
- Black Plasti-Dip spray ($5.98/can...I have priced 3 different stores & the cheapest price can be found at Lowe's. Everywhere else wants $8.99)
- Blue painter's masking tape
- 16" of 1 1/2" diameter heat shrink tubing (I could only find this size diameter in red, yellow and clear. It will be covered w/ Plasti-Dip)
- E6000
- hot glue (optional)
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I began by removing the rubber bumper and screw from the bottom of the cue and throwing it away. Next, I began sanding the pool cue down with 150 grit sandpaper and then wet sanding it with 800 grit sandpaper.
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When removing the rubber bumper from the bottom of the cue there is a shallow hole left. I used an 1/8" drill bit to deepen the hole (roughly the length of the drill bit) to pre-drill for the attaching of the faucet handle utilizing the Auto-Trim Screw. Before attaching the faucet handle to the end of the cue, I applied a small amount of E6000 glue to the area that will come in contact with the bottom of the pool cue. I then fastened the faucet handle down with said screw.
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The Auto-Trim screws were a great choice because they have a shallow head and won't interfere with the plastic faucet end plug (included with the faucet handle).
Before snapping the plug in place, I placed a small amount of hot glue to help hold onto the plug but easy enough to pry open if I ever had to replace the faucet handle.
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Next, I took the pool cue outdoors to give it a coat of grey primer.
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Once dried, I measured out how I would place the "O-Rings" onto the pool cue to start the process of making the (2) black "hand grips". With 2 packs of "O-Rings" purchased, I had a total of (20) "O-Rings". I used (5) of the "O-Rings" to place right against the top of the faucet handle (or Pommel). In the end, the (2) grips will consist of (7) "O-Rings" for the grip; equally spaced roughly 1" apart.
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Next, I will be applying (2) 7.25"" lengths of 1 1/2" diameter heat shrink tubing over the "O-Rings" to create the (2) black grips/handles required for the Force Pike.

I could not find the heat shrink tubing in black for any size over 1" diameter so I went with the red heat shrink tubing. Once heat is applied and the grips take shape, the pool cue will be masked off and 4-5 layers of Plasti-Dip will be applied to achieve black rubber grips/handles. More on that part later...
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Next, I began work on the Rasp. This is the small "spiked" detail near the end of the Force Pike. I took the idea of making this from a member on the Sovereign Protectors forums. I think it turned out great and looks very similar to the one used in Return of the Jedi.

I started with the small Worm Gear from an electric garage door opener repair kit. Luckily I located this piece separately and only paid $6.79 for the piece on eBay.
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First I used 3mm pin stripe tape to mark off the 8 row of teeth needed on the "rasp"
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I then used a Dremel with a cutting disk to cut a centerline down the screw threads (between the tape). Then I placed the cutting wheel against the tape (at an angle) and cut into the threads towards the centerline cut. Leaning the cutting wheel to the left and then right to remove the material not covered by the tape and produce the angle of the teeth.
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And with a little bit of filing with small "jeweler files", I cleaned out the flashing left behind from the Dremel and the melting plastic. Honestly, I think it turned out pretty spot on to the piece seen on the Force Pike in RotJ. I'm very happy with it so far.
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Before I attached the rasp (worm gear), I had to add the 1.5" diameter heat shrink to the "O-Rings". I decided to go with (7) rings rather than (8) for both hand grips. Personal preference. Just measure the heat shrink length you need to the desired length (preferably just past each ring on the ends).
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***NOTE***
My heat shrink grips final measurement are roughly 7.25" long.

Now since I only could find heat shrink this size in red, I'm going to mask off and spray multiple layers of black Plasti-Dip onto them to give them their final look.

Masked off the red heat shrink grips and applied (2) coats of the Plasti-Dip to the "pommel" and grips. After giving it an overnight time to fully cure (only needs 4 hours), I applied (2) more coats for safe measure. The spray Plasti-Dip went on nice and smooth and cured without any texture which was what I was wanting.

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What's nice about Plasti-Dip is it feels more like rubber than plastic once it cures.

Next, I'll use a razor blade (box cutter) to trim around the top/bottom of each grip to carefully remove the painter's tape without removing or peeling any of the Plasti-Dip from the grips or Pommel pieces. There ended up being some over-spray that dried between where the heat shrink is and the masking tape was. If you pull off the masking tape without giving the edges a small slice, you may pull off the Plasti-Dip from the handles.

Now to mask off the Plasti-Dipped pieces and begin spraying on the metallic chrome spray paint.

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I'm not sure if this is the same with all chrome spray paints but I found it very thin and easily runs when spraying if applied to heavily. I recommend applying the chrome paint in very thin coats. Do not apply the next coat until at least 10-15 minutes have passed to allow the first thin coat to adhere. The chrome paint looks very shiny in the end but it took me 6-7 thin coats before I was satisfied with the way it was setting up.

After carefully unwrapping the masking tape from the grips, I was pleased with the results so far.
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Next it was time to attach the rasp and build up the rest of the Force Pike tip. Since the pool cue tapers and isn't one thickness all the way down...I was only able to force the worm gear "rasp" as far down from the pool cue tip as it would allow. Only way to get the rasp greeblie to rest where I have it, I had to slide it on in a "screwing motion". Once it was snug, I took a 2.5" section of 1/4" pipe (made for water line installation) to make the small extension that transitions the rasp to the silver Pike tip.
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By the way, you can use any gold or bronze paint for this piece. I decided to use some leftover gold sunburst paint I had left from an Iron Man helmet I made a few years back. It's Dupli-Color Auto Paint. You can find it at auto parts store.

To attach the section of 1/4" pipe, I utilized Gorilla Glue's 5 min. Plastic Epoxy Resin. Strong stuff.
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Getting near the final stretch...
To finish off the Pike tip, I'm using a leftover infant medicine syringe dropper. I cut off the pointed tip and used a small sanding wheel on the Dremel to hollow out the top.
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I attached the infant medicine syringe dropper onto the tip of my Force Pike with a little E6000. Once it was dry, I then utilized plumbers putty (which you can sculpt with) to create the transition piece from the gold / brass part of the pike back to the chrome tip. It's slightly bigger than I wanted it to be but when using this stuff you only have 2-3 minutes of "sculpting time" until it begins to harden. I still am satisfied with the end result.
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My wife has sewn me a nice carry sleeve out of some Star Wars fleece fabric
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Carolina Garrison CO (2014 - Current)
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JesterTDA
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Re: silverBoyd's "pool cue" RotJ Force Pike Build

Post by JesterTDA »

Great ideas. My first pike was also a pool cue. Then I stumbled upon a set of ski poles for sale at a yard sale and pike #2 came along. I never realized how heavy a pool cue was until I got a hollow aluminum ski pole.

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Sascha_Wilsing
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Re: silverBoyd's "pool cue" RotJ Force Pike Build

Post by Sascha_Wilsing »

Thanks for the WIP.
Looking great.

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